![]() “I think it’s less about the house being in transition and more about the house preparing itself for what is to come,” Shukla said. The columnar silhouettes, fine fabrics and gentle colors certainly telegraphed luxury, and left the door open for the brand’s next creative expression. Shukla described a process of decoding the archives for a “grammar that we could use to project the house into the future.” ![]() The saturated colors were drawn from old Lanvin advertising by photographer Guy Bourdin. One felt a little bit of Alber Elbaz’s fine hand in the purposely frayed silk tank tops and the thin strips of silk lapping against the neck. And what heritage: The oldest fashion house in Paris, and synonymous with the 1920s and ’30s, sublime decades for fashion and design.Ībout a dozen looks comprised the showroom presentation, each outfit exalted in modernist boxes resting atop classic columns.Īccording to Siddhartha Shukla, deputy general manager of Lanvin, the goal was to exalt the capabilities of its design studio and atelier, hence the emphasis on delicately embroidered suits and evening dresses for women, and handsome tailoring for men, here and there with a shaggy floral embroidery at the breast pocket. How you can have fashion and business and not kill fashion.Awaiting the appointment of a new creative director, Lanvin leaned into its heritage for spring. How the skills of the French atelier are valid, precious, and relevant. ![]() Who's next? Which designer? Which pope? This is a collection that is not just a global view, but more a local view. "It is about the world changing, women changing. The ones he does prefer are "love," "happy," and "help." And he wants us to pay attention to those words: "I think this is a collection about thinking," he explained. Unusually for a fashion designer, Elbaz often starts his collections by contemplating spoken and written words here, they were purposefully on display for all to see. ![]() In this instance they spelled "cool." "There is no word I hate more than cool!" Elbaz declared after the show. That was reinforced by the reams of thick gold chains, a constant motif in the collection, along with the letters that dangled from them. In one of the many standout looks, featuring a godet skirt and a top encrusted with winged insect appliqués and embroideries, the shoes transformed the meaning of such a mélange to one of a warped bobby-soxer. She was no longer wearing prissy slippers, and her new footwear altered the entire silhouette. It was the sign that a much tougher girl was emerging for Elbaz this evening. This was most noticeable in the shoes: Gone were the ballet flats in their place, a scaled-down version of a men's oxford. In anybody else's hands, this could have been something of a mess in Alber Elbaz's, it felt like freedom and fun.Ī teenage atmosphere permeated the collection, a schoolgirlish view that avoided the saccharine and cute and could apply to all ages. There was an almost twenties feeling in the first dress, an idea of a floral appliquéd tracksuit in the second look, a fifties cocktail dress in the third…Each model reveled in an idiosyncratic appearance of her own, with makeup tailored to meet her individual needs and hair mostly tied back. The spirit was carefree yet elegant, controlled yet not giving a damn. Here day and night, night and day were all mixed together, sometimes in one look. This relaxed mood continued as the popcorn was swept up and the show began. Model on the runway at Lanvin Fall 2023 Ready To Wear Fashion. It was like a high-fashion fairground where you might bump into Catherine Deneuve playing pitch-and-toss. Ambiance at Ferragamo Fall 2023 Ready To Wear Runway Show on Februat the Milano Convention Center in Milan, Italy. As male ushers served popcorn, cans of soft drinks, and mini bottles of Champagne to the milling crowd, a casual, loose atmosphere was created. That's downbeat in Lanvin terms, you understand, which is to say not very sedate at all by most established norms. The mood for the latest Lanvin show felt almost downbeat on arrival at the venue of the École des Beaux-Arts.
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